Backstage of Telfar TV | Office Magazine

2021-12-14 12:09:15 By : Mr. Harry Shen

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As a fashion lover born in Bushwick, I always know Telfar very well. With the soaring popularity of Instagram, even Queen Bee [Beyonce] herself is wearing "Bushwick Birkin", it is obvious that Telfar Clemons is no ordinary designer. The main smooth leather bag with the bubble logo, the asymmetrical vest and those Telfar Uggs will never make anyone's heart beat faster.

Although my feelings when I entered the Telfar TV studio are understated, what is heartbreaking is how I feel. Not every day I can pass by the idol, but here, I stand in front of Telfar Clemons himself, next to him It is Hood By Air Creator, Shayne Oliver and R&B artist Ian Isiah. The fanatic in my heart knew that I had to get the "Viceroid" of the trio, but before I had time to ask, Telfar put an arm around my shoulder and said, "Want to take a picture of us?" To be honest, I had a plan that night, but once I was rushed to the club by Telfar TV, everything was cancelled.

With an entire team of Black and Queer professionals, no one just sits around and waits to use it. At around 10 am, when the designer pressed every piece to perfection, steam gushed from the stylist's desk, and the production staff spewed sparks on the spot to make the set. The models rushed into the hair and makeup chairs, and then looked completely new. Fortunately, a stylist caught me and said, "If you take pictures on the set, you need to wear some clothes."

At that time, I looked around and realized that everyone was wearing Telfar or Hood By Air/Anonymous Club clothing. No team member did not drip. The anonymous artist Santiago was photographed while being pulled aside to shoot for Lookbook. He is wearing a black Telfar x Moose Knuckle down jacket, with the Telfar logo embroidered on the chest, with a luxurious leather HBA platform, standing in a room with a full mirror. The model lineup includes underground DJs, ballroom legends, Tik Tok stars, Club Kids and skaters.

Telfar Tv has many episodes, but this episode in particular is a club-style performance hosted by Shayne Oliver’s other self "LEECH", he emerged from the model crowd, dressed in HBA files and the perfect style of the new Telfar Combination drops. Performances from Izzy Spears, Tama Gucci and Santiago appeared in a breathtaking indoor blizzard, and models in large furs and stilt shoes swaggered around them. When I watched Tama Gucci walk through a sea of ​​beautiful faces, it was obvious how rare it is for real performers to show off their new music in unprecedented designer clothes.

The latest collaboration model is very suitable for the brick-built Brooklyn winter. It comes with fitted warm pants with fur trim and embossed T logo, large black down jacket, oversized university knitted sweater, and two sizes of down that have never been seen before Telfar package. For a brand considered "Bushwick Birkin", they always bring such a high-end feel to such streetwear.

Look at the BTS that was photographed that night.

We can dream of a future, a smooth spaceship gliding in the air at the speed of light, any of our wants, needs or desires can be realized with the push of a button-but the fact is that the future is a complete invisible entity. Only time will tell where the path we blaze as a civilization will lead tomorrow's travelers. Nevertheless, some creations are so ingenious that they may replace time as we know it.

MONOSUIT is a genderless brand inspired by the solar system, science fiction and all spaces. With the latest series called "Destroy All Monsters", this cutting-edge brand has consolidated their position as a leader in fashion development. Their unique, sustainable and seamless jumpsuits have created "Monoskins", the perfect versatile choice for any occasion.

You can take down the galaxy while wearing a MONOSUIT inspired suit from the space age and rush home for dinner in time. MONOSUIT is breaking down every standard fashion barrier and improving the world at the same time-MONOSUIT is the future.

Read the following Office interview with the brand designer and founder Maria Agapkina to experience the infinite and vast planet, namely MONOSUIT.

How did the journey of MONOSUIT begin? Why did you decide that the world needs a brand like yours?

First of all, I want to introduce myself. My name is Maria Agapkina. I am a designer and the founder of the MONOSUIT fashion brand. Eight years ago, I founded my brand in Moscow, Russia. A few years later—three years ago—we expanded to the United States. My main motivation for creating a brand is actually two different things. First of all, I really like fashion, and I have an artistic background. I am the artist in my heart. Fashion is really something I have dreamed of since I was a child. But at the same time, I can see that fashion has what I call the "dark side", and I know that most people don't like to talk about it. This is the design that I am most worried about-the whole process of creating and using clothes. Now, most clothes, I call it a linear life cycle-we buy something and use it, but these clothes die somewhere in the landfill. From the beginning, I liked fashion. That's cool. This is very interesting, as an artist, it provides me with many creative opportunities. But at the same time, it also has an unpleasant backside. I think I might be one of the people who can really help change things. This is why I started thinking about eight years ago that we need to really make a huge change in the way we produce clothes, the way we design them, and the way we ultimately recycle them. I found that the best solution here is to make the life cycle loop. So for me, my dream from the beginning was that someone buys my clothes, puts them on, and then when this person no longer needs these clothes, we need to recycle it—preferably into powder or fiber . With this fiber, we can make threads, then use threads to form fabrics, and then use fabrics to make new clothes. The concept of zero waste has become my dream. I focused all my efforts on starting this business, and now I want to help other people who support me transform from a linear life cycle to a circular and zero waste concept. The brand started with that great dream. It was very ambitious and romantic at first, but now we have done it.

I think many brands-they didn't start with this idea from the beginning of the brand concept. As far as you said, this has always been the intention. Your products are made very ethically, but many companies are just beginning to figure these things out. I think this is really commendable, because this has always been your vision, and it is expressed through your work.

Thank you so much for saying that. I want to say that the most important motivation is actually my parents graduated from agricultural university. My parents have planted those seeds all their lives. This is why, since I was a child, I have felt a deep connection with nature. I have actually been to more than 60 countries around the world. Year after year, I have witnessed with my own eyes the terrible conditions that happen around the world due to rubbish. There is too much plastic and garbage floating in our oceans. It's about actually accepting this. I think not every government understands that this phenomenon is accelerating, and we need to take immediate action.

Can you explain the behind-the-scenes process of making the recycled nylon contained in the jumpsuit? How does ocean and landfill waste turn from rubbish into a beautiful end product?

I did a lot of research and discovered amazing technology in Italy. I met with general managers and representatives of some factories, and we started discussing that we were on the same page, you know, we have the same interests. For them, they are producing fabrics, and they are also looking for ways to produce sustainable fabrics. For us, we are studying how to make design more sustainable and how to purchase more sustainable technologies. Together we found a solution. When we talk about marine garbage, it is actually a subsidiary of the factory, and we collectively control it. Most marine trash is fishing nets, and of course plastic trash. So we collect all the garbage in the Mediterranean and Pacific. Then these wastes need to be sorted out. We use these garbage to make capsules-they look like small black stones. We turn these "stones" into powder, and only a minimum amount of water is required for the entire process. Compared with organic cotton, which requires a lot of water and a lot of manpower, it is more ecological. This is a mechanical process. With powder, then we make the thread. After that, we can actually use two methods. The first method is that we can make fabrics and then cut our clothes with traditional "cut and sew" patterns. But we decided not to use this method; we decided to move in the direction of more automation. It is seamless. This means that all these threads go into a special tubular machine. For example, these machines are also used to make tights. Therefore, we are able to combine sustainable, recyclable yarn with recycling production.

All of our jumpsuits have zippers on the lower back, which solves this embarrassing problem for women-you don't have to sit naked in the bathroom. So far, we are able to use 30% of the fiber made from this recycled material, but we will increase the percentage of recycling from collection to collection. It's just that the technology doesn't exist yet. We have tried to make our products 100% recyclable, but they are not very comfortable to wear. I wear it now, from morning till night. So we try to find a balance between keeping warm, antibacterial, soft like cotton, but at the same time-recyclable. This is why in the next series, I hope we can increase it by 10% or 20%, and then hope that in about three years, we will have 100% recyclable and comfortable wear.

My heart is shocked because the details are too complicated. 30% recycled materials are 30% more than many other brands. Your jumpsuit is also the first batch of "high-tech" jumpsuits. From antibacterial materials to patented "secret" zippers, you really think about everything. Can you help me break down all the techniques contained in the jumpsuit?

These qualities-antibacterial and thermal properties-are actually related to how the garment is woven. For example, you can weave it in a stronger way, or you can weave it in a way that it will still breathe. We tried at least 15 times-we tried how to weave to get the best softness and best breathability. For the antibacterial effect, some ingredients are actually added to the top of the fiber to prevent the growth of bacteria. For example, bacteria like cotton. Combining different man-made materials is good because bacteria don't like them. So this is not about killing bacteria, but about preventing them from growing.

I know you said you are wearing Monoskin now. Why do you think everyone should have a Monoskin jumpsuit in their wardrobe?

For me, this is a very busy person. In the morning, you always think, "Gosh, what to wear—I have to combine top and bottom." With Monoskin, it's easy. Basically you can jump in and walk. So this morning, I wore it to go jogging. It is breathable and suitable for winter temperatures. Then at this meeting, in order to look more "serious", I just put on a jacket and I was ready. You can easily match all the basic items in the wardrobe, while saving your time. I like this one I wear-it is like cinnamon. But black is always universal. Especially when you are traveling or on an airplane, there is no uncomfortable squeeze-you don't actually feel it. Another thing I like is that jumpsuits are very popular now, especially in all these digital aspects-such as games and virtual reality. Wearing it makes me feel like a superhero. I am also a big fan of space and space travel, and I feel very futuristic. It is a great alternative to matching leggings and tops; I think this is a bit outdated now.

Your latest series is called "Destroy All Monsters" and is inspired by the 60s movies of Irish Honda. So I want to know, what is your favorite science fiction movie?

This may be an unexpected answer, but for me, I think what you see in science fiction movies can be observed in what Grimes and her do. It's like a reality show. But I really like all retro-futuristic movies, such as Kubrick, or I really like this Russian movie called "Solaris"-this story is written by a Russian writer. I really like a slow futuristic movie-almost hypnotic. You will feel that you are there in some way-in a spacecraft, lost in space. I think all the old ones are the best. I like the irony of these movies.

Yes, all these topics are now also related to technology. So I think this is a very cool concept to build a series.

This again comes from my childhood. The first astronaut was actually in Russia in 1961. My childhood was full of dreams, maybe one or two years later, we can easily travel between planets. I'm still waiting for that moment-hope it will come soon. This is why I need to be ready for what I can wear!

Exactly. You can wear Monoskin in space. You have talked before that what you wear can change yourself—it can change your identity, depending on what you wear. You say, you know, maybe you can even feel like a superhero. So, if you can become a superhero, what will your power be?

I often see myself flying in my dreams. So I think I will become a fairy or an elf-something similar. My superpowers will fly through space, curiously observing what is happening and how I can help change things-kind of like an angel. For example, if I see a lot of rubbish somewhere, I have a magic wand, I can touch the rubbish and clean it all up. Turn waste into treasure, do you know?

My follow-up question is, if you can visit a planet, which planet would you choose and why?

I think I want to go to another universe-not a planet in our galaxy. Therefore, if I had the opportunity to talk to some higher mind, I would ask them how many universes there are in our solar system. And if they say, for example, "five", I will go to the furthest one. I want to see the weirdest and weird place. I can gather inspiration and maybe bring some amazing things here and back to the earth.

Only three years after you brought MONOSUIT to the U.S., your work has been seen on some very well-known brands. For you, what is the moment that really made you realize that your brand resonates with people?

Our strategy is to participate in New York Fashion Week every season. We started in 2018 and held it in New York twice a year, just to increase visibility. The response was very positive. They will say,'Your clothes are not here! Many people use the term avant-garde or futurism. Many people say that they have never seen anything like this in New York before. For me, this is a lot of support. When I compare it with Moscow, Russia-I also get a lot of support here, but the American people prefer to wear original designs. In Moscow, people want to wear brands they are familiar with. In New York, I saw people very open to new ideas. They really support me. The biggest celebrity, the first is Maye Musk. She started to support the brand and we have been sending her customized works. Then there is Madonna. Madonna is like that moment.

Do you have any interesting concept ideas you are working on for the next series?

Now, many of the sustainable aspects that we hope to incorporate into the strategy are actually digital—digital clothing. Because from the perspective of sustainable development, digital clothing is a great direction for us. All these big plans that Zuckerberg made for Metaverse actually opened up a good perspective for designers to design digital clothing that might be used for avatars. I know that, statistically speaking, about one of the 10 clothes people buy is usually only used for Instagram pictures or Facebook pictures, and then it is rubbish. Frankly speaking, this is an annoying thing. It does not need to go this way. Many of our clothes are manifesto items-I just want people to wear them for many years. This is why we are very, very focused on quality. But at the same time, if we see that this person would rather just wear it to take a photo, we would rather stimulate them to buy a digital version of this dress. Its impact on our environment is much smaller-except for some electronic waste. Therefore, digital clothing and NFT are our next main directions.

Check out the new series below.

There is nothing worse than two sisters working side by side to piece together dizzying looks for today's stars. The styling and creative mentoring duo of Chloe and Chenelle Delgadillo not only put the current fashion trends together and called it a day-they called themselves "Closet Scientists". This title is very suitable, because their craft must be an accurate and unrepeatable science.

The Los Angeles Sisters are the brains behind a series of breathtaking ensembles of your favorite artists, from gorgeous Met Gala costumes to seductive outfits that grace the covers of your favorite magazines. Their styling usually has a nostalgic style inspired by a bygone era, while still trying to remain fashionable and authentic with their canvases-this is a delicate balance that only C&C can grasp.

Read the following office interviews with Chloe and Chenelle to learn about the work behind the scenes of the latest and greatest fashion commanders in the fashion industry.

When did each of you get involved in the fashion and styling world? Have you all been passionate about fashion since childhood?

Chenelle-Chloe has always been obsessed with fashion-always read fashion magazines or watch some fashion-related TV shows. Compared with homework or study, she spends more time choosing clothes for school the next day.

Chloe-Chenelle is more like a sporty academic figure.

C&C-Our parents have a certain influence on our style-Our earliest memory is that our mother took us to be frugal. Our father also had a skateboard brand in the 90s, so we were often surrounded by clothes.

How does it feel to work with your sister every day?

C&C-We can't imagine doing this job with other people or ourselves, because we can be the truest ourselves and be very honest when necessary. We must have our fair disagreement, but if it becomes intense, we will resolve it within 0.5 seconds. This is indeed a sister matter.

You all grew up in Los Angeles. In what ways has this growth experience influenced your personal style?

C & C — Our parents broke up when they were very young, and our mother moved to Missouri, so we spent time in both places. Those extremely antagonistic environments have indeed affected our style in different ways. We know what fashion is, because Los Angeles was more ahead of the trend at the time, and then if we stayed in Missouri for a long time, we had to imitate those styles by making our own clothes or being frugal, because there was absolutely no shopping in Missouri.

Would you say that you two have very different tastes and styles, or do you tend to buy the same products when you shop today?

C&C-For our customers, our tastes are largely consistent. However, we have very, very different personal styles.

Who is your most iconic fashion inspiration?

C&C-our little sister, she is really confident, she can wear whatever she wants. 

What is your favorite magazine cover or editorial so far?

C & C — Definitely our cover shoot for Playboy with Nadia Lee Cohen. The cover features five generations of playmates, representing age equality. It's more like an inspiring experience. Get to know each model, listen to their stories of struggles as women in a male-dominated environment, and how they managed to overcome difficulties.

The Y2K style look you create is always praised-I think every piece of clothing you make is better than the last one, because they perfectly embody the modern Gen Z style. How does it feel to know that your work has influenced the fashion of young people everywhere?

C&C-Honestly, even reading this question feels surreal. We try to treat everything we do and everyone we work with as fully present and living in the present. It’s great to be appreciated, and if what we do can inspire others, it’s great. We are also constantly inspired.

What are your favorite brands and designers right now?

C&C-we are always looking for emerging designers, and are greatly inspired by the success or even the emergence of brands in the past two years-in an already difficult environment, this is incredibly difficult. But now we have some prominent brands-Chet Lo, heaven, Miss Sohee and Luis de Javier.

How do you see your future career development direction? What's next for Chloe and Chenelle?

C&C-important things!

You can view some of Chloe and Chenelle's works below.

Daniel Lee's decision to leave Bottega Veneta still has the same shock value as when he broke the news a few weeks ago. When Matthieu Blazy was about to fill some sizable shoes, the legendary Daniel Lee gave up the last collection. In this series, Lee uses everything he knows and uses it to run-reimagining Bottega's house through his unparalleled lens and aligning with the brand for years to come.

This series bid farewell to the short-lived vision, but despite this, the relaxed, playful and iconic design patterns of Lee brought a perfect end to the original wonderful journey. Lee uses contrast stitching, twisted patterns, and fluffy materials to deal with traditional forms such as denim, corduroy, and dresses, transcending and transcending as usual.

Stand out in a combination of 62 extraordinary shapes, including the most advanced Bottega puffer fish, embedded in green and cream, made of leather, and a quilted puffer fish look. Others include contrasting velvet, smooth leather, nylon and knitted fabrics, which are inoculated with pinstripes, snakes, twisted triangles, sequins and other patterns-all of which are equipped with accessories that highlight all the glory of the series.

In this way, the epic end of the journey of some of the most influential works, these works will not only provide inspiration for Bottega but also for the many upcoming collections of other luxury goods companies. Fans of Bottega are full of eager anticipation, because now everyone has to wait to see Matthieu's new products in February.

You can now view the collection below.

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